Saturday, October 15, 2011

7.2 Questions - Waves



  1. The wind forms ripples, than these form wavelets and finally waves.
  2. A fetch is the distance wind travels one the ocean to form a wave. They are important factor because the waves speed and size is determined by the strength of the wind and length of the fetch.
  3. The waves in the open ocean are mainly small and are only influenced by the wind which differs to waves closer to the shore which have the sand to influence the strength and frequency in which they occur
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   6. Spilling waves : Break far from shore and is mainly white foam when reaches shore, good for bodysurfing
       Plunging waves: Break near shore, form tubes, good for board riders
       Surging waves: Break on the shore, cause erosion, roll up steep face
   7. Wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency as opposed to a ground swell which is the opposite, a long wavelength and less frequent waves.

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