Thursday, October 20, 2011

Big Waves

Pre-viewing:

  1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started? Waves come from far out in sea from winds blowing on the top of water and generate energy to keep the wave going.
  2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing? They should know about what kind of swell it is and when the wave is going to break.

Question for the Video:


  1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions. They are formed by the wind thousands of miles away and break once they hit a reef and 'jump'. The ocean floor is mainly flat and than hits the reef, slowing part of it down, and drawing in the wave energy to one spot.
  2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured? Waves are formed with low pressure and high pressure systems generate energy when they come in close contact with each other. The wind generates energy into the ocean and pushes them towards the shorelines. They are measured by periods, height, and wave length.
  3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed? A maverick wave is a 'big' wave found in northern California and is special because it only happens in winter and when the ocean floor is flat leading up to the reef.
  4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave? Energy is stored by the continuous movement of energy over a long period of water and combining together and is transferred throught the water through the constant circling of water.
  5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
    • Respect the waves
    • Know when its going to break
    • Waves 'jump' when hit the reef
    • Once 'jumped' waves are about 2 times the size of the original wave before the reef
    • Only do it if you are experienced

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